Castelão Grape: A Guide to Portugal’s Hidden Wine Gem

When it comes to Portuguese wine, the world often falls in love with the boldness of Touriga Nacional or the freshness of Alvarinho. But there’s one grape that quietly weaves its way through Portugal’s vinous history, a workhorse variety that’s as versatile as it is intriguing: Castelão. Known affectionately as "Periquita" in some circles, this grape holds a special place in the heart of Portuguese wine culture. Today, we’re diving deep into the story of Castelão—its character, its role in Portuguese winemaking, and why it deserves a spot in your glass.
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First things first, let’s clear up the name game. Castelão is the official name, but depending on where you are in Portugal, you might hear it called Periquita, João de Santarém, or even Santarém itself. The name "Periquita" became synonymous with Castelão thanks to José Maria da Fonseca, one of Portugal’s most iconic wine producers, who popularized it with their flagship wine.

Castelão thrives in Portugal's diverse terroirs, but it’s particularly at home in the southern regions like Península de Setúbal, Alentejo, and Tejo. It’s also planted in the sandy soils of the Palmela DOC, where it truly shines.

What Makes Castelão Unique?

Castelão isn’t a diva. It adapts beautifully to a variety of climates and soil types, from the coastal sands of Setúbal to the hotter inland regions of Alentejo. This resilience has made it a staple of Portuguese viticulture for centuries.

What makes Castelão truly fascinating is its versatility. Depending on how it’s grown and vinified, it can produce wines that are light and fruity or rich and complex. Here are some of the key characteristics that define Castelão wines:

Fruit-Forward Flavors: Expect red berry notes like raspberry, cherry, and even a touch of cranberry. In warmer regions, you might also pick up darker fruit flavors like plum or blackberry.
Earthy Undertones: Castelão often delivers a rustic edge, with hints of leather, spice, and dried herbs.
Balanced Acidity: Its natural acidity makes it an excellent food wine, cutting through rich dishes while complementing lighter fare.
Aging Potential: While many Castelão wines are made for immediate enjoyment, the best examples—particularly those blended or aged in oak—develop beautifully over time, gaining complexity and depth.

Classic Castelão in Palmela DOC

In the sandy soils of Palmela, Castelão reigns supreme. Here, the grape expresses itself with vibrant red fruit flavours and a characteristic freshness. Many wines from this region are 100% Castelão, showcasing its full potential. For example, José Maria da Fonseca’s Periquita Reserva is a classic choice, offering a well-rounded blend of fruitiness and structure.

Castelão as a Blending Partner

While Castelão shines on its own, it’s also a team player. Winemakers blend it with Portuguese varieties like Aragonês (Tempranillo) or Touriga Nacional to create complex, layered wines. In Alentejo, for instance, Castelão contributes brightness and fruit to the region’s bold, full-bodied blends.

In recent years, Castelão has gained attention for its potential in natural and low-intervention winemaking. Some producers are experimenting with lighter, unoaked styles, letting the grape’s fresh and fruity side take centre stage. These wines are perfect for those who love the casual, easy-drinking vibe of a chilled red.

Food Pairings: Castelão’s Culinary Soulmate Status

One of Castelão’s superpowers is its ability to pair with a wide range of dishes. Its vibrant acidity and mix of fruity and savoury notes make it a versatile partner at the table. Here are some top pairing ideas:

Portuguese Classics: Castelão’s earthy side pairs beautifully with traditional dishes like carne de porco à Alentejana (pork with clams) or bacalhau com natas (creamy codfish).
Grilled Meats: Whether it’s piri-piri chicken or a juicy steak, Castelão complements the smoky, savoury flavours of grilled dishes.
Cheeses: Opt for semi-hard cheeses like São Jorge or a mild Manchego to bring out the wine’s fruitiness.
Casual Fare: A lighter Castelão works surprisingly well with pizza, burgers, or even charcuterie.

Castelão-Based Wines You Need to Try

If you're ready to dive into the Castelão experience, here are some standout wines that showcase the grape's diversity and potential. From iconic classics to modern interpretations, these bottles will give you a true taste of what Castelão is all about.

José Maria da Fonseca Periquita Reserva (Península de Setúbal)

Why it’s worth trying: As one of the most famous Castelão wines, this blend of Castelão with small amounts of Touriga Nacional and Syrah highlights its potential for complexity and elegance. Expect ripe red fruit flavors, a touch of spice, and smooth tannins.
Tasting Notes: Raspberry, plum, and subtle oak spice.
Food Pairing: Perfect with grilled lamb or hearty Portuguese stews.

Adega Camolas Castelão (Palmela DOC)

Why it’s worth trying: A 100% Castelão wine, this bottle captures the essence of Castelão grown in the sandy soils of Palmela. It’s fresh, approachable, and ideal for those exploring single-varietal expressions.
Tasting Notes: Bright cherry, wild berries, and a hint of dried herbs.
Food Pairing: Works beautifully with baked codfish dishes like bacalhau à Brás.

Casa Ermelinda Freitas Castelão (Península de Setúbal)

Why it’s worth trying: Known for its dedication to regional varieties, Casa Ermelinda Freitas crafts a Castelão that’s fruit-forward yet structured. This is a great value wine, offering a lot of character at an affordable price.
Tasting Notes: Redcurrant, blackberry, and a touch of vanilla.
Food Pairing: Pair it with pizza, charcuterie, or casual pasta dishes.

Quinta da Bacalhôa - Catarina Tinto (Península de Setúbal)

Blend: Alicante Bouschet and Castelão.
Why it’s worth trying: A beautifully crafted red wine that marries the richness and concentration of Castelão with Alicante Bouschet’s depth and structure. Aged partially in French oak, it offers a balance of ripe fruit and elegant complexity, making it a standout from the Península de Setúbal.
Tasting Notes: Deep color with intense aromas of red fruits, integrated with toasty and vanilla nuances. The palate is firm, elegant, and complex, with a long, lingering finish and great aging potential for 3 to 4 years.
Food Pairing: Exceptionally versatile, it pairs well with tapas, pasta, and both white and red meat dishes. A fantastic choice for a relaxed evening meal or a casual gathering with friends.

Castelão: A Grape with Many Names